At the end of a narrow, dead-end street in the formerly-seedy South Pigalle, a bright yellow facade catches your eye. It’s now occupied by a […]
Le Grand Guignol: A Parisian Theatre That Helped Birth the Horror Genre
Stories & Anecdotes
Remembering the Attacks of November 13th in Paris (& a Review of the Netflix Documentary)
Well, I finally took the plunge. After years of avoiding it, I recently eked out some time on a Sunday morning to watch a three-part […]
Olympe de Gouges, France’s Revolutionary Feminist (Biography)
Despite holding a significant place in the annals of French revolutionary history, Olympe de Gouges is hardly a household name. Many will easily recognize figures […]
Why to Visit Drancy, one of France’s Most Important Shoah Memorial Sites
In March of 2020, I made a short trip from Paris that was a long time coming. I boarded a train, then a bus, to […]
The History of Bastille Day (and a Few Weird Facts)
On July 14th, Paris will once again celebrate Bastille Day, or the Fête Nationale (National Holiday) with all the pomp, circumstance and vibrancy we’ve come […]
An Elegant Paris Building (With a Dark History of Nazi Collaboration)
On the Place des Petits Pères in central Paris, a sense of calm abounds these days. The Basilique Notre-Dame-des-Victoires church graces the square, and the […]
Paris, the Week Before Lockdown: Springtime Poetry & Rising Anxiety
I’m currently sitting in my kitchen and watching a jackdaw hop around in the back garden, while bees hum around a rosemary bush that’s recently […]
A Short History of Quarantines in Europe and France
The early spring of 2020 will no doubt take up some space in the history books. It marks a moment that was unprecedented in contemporary […]
Fluctuat Nec Mergitur: Why is it Paris’ Motto, and What Does it Mean?
If you follow Parisian cultural trends on a regular basis, you’ve probably seen locals reference the Latin expression “Fluctuat nec mergitur” as the city’s motto. […]
The Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris: 8 Reasons to Love It
More than a museum, it’s a cultural touchstone Few places in Paris carry the sort of sentimental weight that the Centre Georges Pompidou does for […]
Montparnasse Cemetery in Paris: Walking Paths & Famous Graves
Montparnasse Cemetery, opened in 1824, sits on a site that was once occupied by three farms– in what was then a rural, sleepy corner of […]
After the Fire: A Short History of Notre-Dame Cathedral’s Disasters & Rebirths
Like most people, I felt a lump rising in my throat when I saw images of Notre-Dame Cathedral lapped with flames and choked by smoke […]
Academie de la Grande Chaumière: The Paris Art Studio Favored by Modigliani, Miró and Lempicka
{Editor’s Note: In July 2025, the historic premises of the Académie de la Grande Chaumière closed its doors. There is a new location (at 2, […]
How to Get From the Airport to Paris by Taxi (& Avoid Scams)
I still remember my first (and last) scam taxi ride from Charles de Gaulle Airport. I was returning home from a visit with family in […]
Medieval Paris: A Self-Guided Tour of Sites From Middle Ages
During the 19th century, the Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann gutted much of what had been medieval Paris– forging the iconic skyline and enormous, grandiose boulevards we […]
Paris Out of Hand: A Review of the Surrealist Guidebook to the Capital
…& Some Thoughts on the Power of “Imaginary Cities”, in Print & in Dreams The subtitle of the handsomely bound, compact red volume should […]
Farine & O, One of the Best Bakeries Near Paris’ Marché d’Aligre
In France, there’s a strongly held belief that the most talented boulangers (bread bakers) are not generally equally gifted at producing top-notch pastries. Similarly, pâtissiers (pastry makers) tend to […]
Exploring Paris’ Belleville District: A Haven for Artists, Immigrants & Revolutionaries
I’m a former resident of Belleville, that fascinating, messy, chaotic neighborhood in northeastern Paris that’s too often maligned (at worst) or overlooked (at best). An […]
How I Became a French Citizen: Reflections On My Long Path to “La Citoyenneté”
In 2010, I became a French citizen after a long, painstaking decade of renewing visas and residency cards, struggling at times to make ends meet […]
These Places in Paris Aren’t Usually Associated With Black American History. They Should Be.
“It’s a great city, Paris, a beautiful city––and––it was very good for me.” — James Baldwin, Another Country (1962) One of the most singular and […]
