Last Updated on June 18, 2026
In Paris, there’s no shortage of restaurants whose menus heavily feature traditional French foods and dishes. But how to know where to taste the really good stuff? Traditional bistros and brasseries catering primarily to tourists often claim to serve “authentic” bœuf bourguignon, mousse au chocolat, steak-frites or canard à l’orange, but the reality too often fails to live up to the promise.
But disappointment can be avoided– we promise. In what follows, we take a look at 10 iconic French foods (including several vegetarian options), offering tidbits of history and suggestions on where to taste each dish in Paris. Avoid the tourist traps, and head straight to the places that do justice to traditional French classics.
French Onion Soup (Soupe à l’oignon)
In her 2018 Vice article, Emily Monaco pointed out that onion soup is often consumed as a hangover cure in France. “If you ever attend a wedding in France, don’t be surprised if, long after cake has been served, someone offers you a bowl of French onion soup,” she writes. The soup is known for its rich, cheesy, and umami-rich qualities—perfect for this purpose.
A bit of history
Though its exact origins are unclear, some trace soupe à l’oignon to King Louis XV, who supposedly personally improvised a version with only onions, butter and splashes of champagne. Others credit Stanislas Leszczynski, the Duke of Lorraine, who reportedly encountered the dish in Champagne and brought the recipe back home.
However, historical records suggest onion soup predates both Louis and Stanislas. A version of it appears in Viandier, a 14th-century cookbook by Taillevent, which calls for onions cooked in butter, then topped with pea purée and water. The dish truly rose to prominence in the mid-19th century at restaurants around Les Halles, Paris’ famed central marketplace.
It was in restaurants such as Poule au Pot, Chez Baratte, and Au Pied de Cochon (all located around the market) that the addition of melted cheese and broiling gave birth to the emblematic gratinée atop the onion soup we recognize today.
While onion soup isn’t something Parisians eat often, it still has its place—especially in the colder months.
Where to taste in Paris?
Bouillon République
Despite my less-than-enthusiastic opinion of Bouillon Chartier’s boeuf bourguignon (see more on that below), I was determined to see if any of the other Parisian restaurants known as bouillons, known for serving traditional French food, could deliver better versions of the signature dishes on our shortlist. I headed to Bouillon République to find out.
{History of the French Bouillon, and the Best in Paris}
I had heard good things about their onion soup, and I was pleasantly surprised. The soup had great depth of flavor, with a small portion that was neither greasy nor overly salty. It was well-seasoned, with a broth-like richness rather than a watery consistency, and the balance of onions was harmonious. By far, this is my favorite of the bouillons in Paris.
- Address: 39 Boulevard du Temple, 75003 Paris
- Metro: République (Lines 3, 5, 8, 9, 11)
- Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday: 12:00 pm – 12:00 am.
- Website: Bouillon République
La Poule au Pot
The much-lauded Paris by Mouth recently published an article on good spots for soupe à l’oignon in the capital, noting how difficult it was to find a decent bowl outside of touristy joints. Writer Meg Zimbeck recommended La Poule au Pot, an elegant bistro near the Louvre and helmed by chef Jean-François Piège.
It’s not inexpensive (at the time of writing, a bowl costs €20), but Zimbeck recons it’s the best in the city.
- Address: 9 Rue Vauvilliers, 75001 Paris
- Metro Station: Louvre-Rivoli (Line 1)
Opening Hours: Tuesday to Saturday: 12:00 pm – 2:00 pm, 7:00 pm – 11:00 pm. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. - Website: La Poule au Pot
Au Pied de Cochon
One of the first places to serve what we now recognize as French onion soup, Au Pied de Cochon remains one of the few Parisian restaurants to remain open 24 hours a day. And onion soup remains one of their signature dishes.
“This is the dish – the gratinée– that has never left our menu,” Dufour, the restaurant’s manager, told Emily Monaco in the aforementioned article for Vice. He noted that the restaurant continues to sell between 150 and 200 bowls a day to a diverse crowd, including workers, tourists, and even the neighborhood’s poor, thanks to a longstanding partnership with the nearby Saint-Eustache Church.
The brasserie itself is fun and mildly kitschy, with reasonably priced dishes that deliver excellent quality.
- Address: 6 Rue Coquillière, 75001 Paris
- Metro: Les Halles (Line 4), Louvre-Rivoli (Line 1)
- Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday: 8:00am – 11:00am, 11:30am – 5:00
- Website: Au Pied de Cochon
Escargots
Escargots may have a reputation as a quintessential French dish, but they aren’t something Parisians eat regularly. The famous escargots à la Bourguignonne—snails baked in garlic, butter, and parsley—are typically reserved for special occasions or large family meals, particularly during the festive season.
A bit of history
Evidence of snail consumption dates to the Paleolithic era in Spain, and the Romans were particularly fond of them too. Some myths about escargots’ arrival in France persist; such as the belief that Julius Caesar brought them to Gaul during his campaigns. However, archaeological findings suggest that snails were consumed by hunter-gatherers in the land that would eventually become France as far back as 8,000 years ago.
Most historians agree that the modern version of escargots à la Bourguignonne were popularized in 1814 by Talleyrand, Napoleon’s diplomat, who served them at a grand dinner for the Russian Tsar. To impress the Tsar, chef Antonin Carême prepared snails with garlic and butter, and the dish became a hit, spreading throughout France.
It’s still possible to find good snail dishes in the city. When done well, they should be tender and lightly dressed in butter, garlic and parsley.
But be warned: poorly prepared escargots—especially if cooked from frozen—can be a rubbery nightmare, so it’s worth seeking out establishments that serve fresh, quality versions, such as the ones listed below.
Where to taste in Paris?
Auberge Bressane
Auberge Bressane is a favorite for traditional French fare. While it’s not inexpensive, the restaurant does a great job with classic dishes, and the ambiance feels authentically French without being overrun by tourists.
The waitstaff are sharply dressed, and dishes like Baked Alaska flambéed at the table add a touch of theater. I recommended it for escargots recently, and my friend texted me right after to say how good they were—served in a rich, bubbling garlic-butter sauce, so much so that even a five-year-old diner in the group asked for her own plate and finished them off.
- Address: 16 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, 75007 Paris
- Metro: École Militaire (Line 8)
- Opening Hours: Monday to Friday: 12:00 – 14:30 & 19:30 – 22:15, Saturday 19:30 – 22:15, Sunday: 12:00 – 14:30 & 19:30 – 22:15
- Website: Auberge Bressane
Allard
For something more upscale, Alan Ducasse’s bistro in Saint-Germain is a fantastic option. While Ducasse has achieved celebrity chef status, this table avoids any gimmicks. Chef Lisa Desforges, trained at Ferrandi, leads the kitchen with hearty Burgundy-inspired dishes, including a dozen escargots drenched in garlic, butter and parsley.
There are also other French classics on offer, such as frogs’ legs and chou farci (stuffed cabbage with lobster and chestnuts). The ambiance is romantic and stylish: perfect for a memorable evening out.
- Address: 41 Rue St-André des Arts, 75006 Paris
- Metro: Saint-Germain-des-prés (Line 4)
- Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday: 12:00pm – 14:30pm & 19:00pm – 22:30pm. Closed on Sundays.
- Website: Allard
Le Petit Vendôme
If you’re looking to try traditional French escargots in a more relaxed setting, Le Petit Vendôme is a great choice, notably praised by Time Out and David Lebovitz. While I often stop by for their sandwiches (best devoured at the counter with a glass of wine), the sit-down meals here are equally enjoyable. The food is fresh, simple and affordable, making it a great spot for a laid-back meal that doesn’t skimp on flavor.
- Address: 8 Rue des Capucines, 75002 Paris
- Metro: Opéra (Lines 3, 7, 8)
- Opening Hours: Monday: 8:30am – 4:30pm, Tuesday to Friday: 08:30am – 2am, Saturday: 10:00am – 2am. Closed on Sundays.
- Website: Le Petit Vendôme
Steak-Frites
I’m including steak frites here not just because it’s a classic French bistro dish, but to help visitors avoid the crowds at the much-fussed-over restaurant Le Relais de l’Entrecôte (I get asked about it all the time). It’s a social media favorite, but trust me, there are better spots in Paris to enjoy this dish without the long wait.
A bit of history
Probably invented sometime in the 19th or early 20th century, steak-frites is one of those dishes claimed both by France and Belgium as their own. While France might be credited with making it a bistro staple, Belgium’s influence—especially when it comes to perfecting the fries—is hard to ignore.
Traditionally, rump steak was used, though these days you’ll find everything from ribeye to porterhouse or flank, often with a béarnaise sauce. Steak-frites is on nearly every bistro menu in Paris, but it’s worth knowing where to find a truly great version.
Where to taste in Paris?
Le Cornichon
This modern bistro in the food-centric 11ème arrondissement (district) of Paris occupies a former tabac (tobacco seller), serving up ambitious plates without pretension. Their steak-frites features beef-fat-fried potatoes served on silver platters, accompanied by golden, tarragon-rich béarnaise sauce. The filet, topped with foie gras and Madeira demi-glace, is decadently satisfying.
- Address: 2 Rue des Goncourt, 75011 Paris
- Metro: Goncourt (Line 11), Oberkampf (Lines 5,9)
- Hours: Tuesday to Friday: 8:00am – 2:00am, Saturday: 10:00am – 2:00am. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
- Website: Le Cornichon
Bistrot des Tournelles
Despite only having opened in 2022, this establishment feels wonderfully timeless. Their fillet of beef arrives upon a moat of rich sauce au poivre, accompanied by perfectly crisp skin-on fries.
- Address: 6 Rue des Tournelles, 75004 Paris
- Metro: Chemin Vert (Line 8)
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 7:00pm – 11:00pm. Closed on Mondays. - Website: Bistrot des Tournelles
Severo
A paradise for serious meat enthusiasts, this intimate ten-table restaurant in a quiet stretch of the 14th arrondissement in south Paris is run by owner and butcher William Bernet, who personally selects and ages the beef. The expertly seasoned frites and outstanding wine list (particularly strong in selections from the Beaujolais and Rhône regions of France) complete the experience. As Paris by Mouth notes, it’s “A great option for Monday night, and a terrible idea for vegetarians.”
{Eating Out While Vegetarian or Vegan in Paris Isn’t Impossible Anymore}
- Address: 8 Rue des Plantes, 75014 Paris
- Metro: Alésia (Line 4)
- Hours: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: 12:00pm – 2:00pm, 7:30pm – 10:00pm. Closed on Saturdays and Sundays.
- Website: Le Severo
Mousse au chocolat
Who wouldn’t want to end a traditional French meal with a dish of perfectly smooth, rich mousse au chocolat? Believe it or not, though, bad versions of the iconic dessert do exist, or even abound– with many restaurants defrosting industrial mousses and cheekily passing them off as their own. Don’t be fooled. Keep reading for where to taste a good one in Paris.
{Related: How to Avoid Bad Food & Restaurants in Paris}
A bit of history
Perhaps more than any traditional French dish on this list, chocolate mousse is surrounded by folklore and food myths. I particularly enjoyed food historian Sarah Wassberg Johnson’s takedown of the popular story that impressionist painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec—also an adventurous cook—created both the recipe and the name mayonnaise de chocolat, or chocolate mayonnaise.
While there’s a kernel of truth to the “mayonnaise” aspect, as cited in a 1909 French cookbook that instructs cooks to mix melted chocolate with egg yolks and fold in beaten egg whites “like ordinary mayonnaise”, the true origins predate Lautrec by centuries.
The historian notes that chocolate mousse might have origins as far back as 1687, when Indigenous Central Americans frothed chocolate drinks using a mollinio, pouring the liquid between cups, a technique later adopted by Europeans. By 1768, L’art de bien faire les glaces d’office included a recipe for chocolate mousse, where chocolate was melted, combined with cream, and whisked into a frothy, familiar form.
Where to taste in Paris?
Plaq
Located in the heart of Paris, Plaq is a sleek, modern “bean-to-bar” chocolate-making establishment. Many of the city’s top restaurants use their chocolates, celebrated for their high quality and variety. The staff are experts, eager to guide you through the offerings. Their mousse très chocolat is available only on weekends, but it’s well worth planning your visit around the timing—a rich, yet surprisingly light, treat.
- Address: 4 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris
- Metro: Étienne Marcel (Line 4)
- Opening Hours: Tuesday to Friday: 11:00 am – 7:30 pm, Saturday: 10:00 am – 7:30 pm, Sunday: 10:00 am – 6:30 pm. Closed on Mondays.
- Website: Plaq
Au Moulin à Vent
For a more traditional chocolate mousse experience, Au Moulin à Vent in the Latin Quarter comes highly recommended. A hidden gem, it offers a classic bistro atmosphere whose vibe feels local and not too touristy. The mousse, while simple, but hits all the right notes in both texture and flavor. This is also a great spot for other well-executed French dishes.
- Address: 20 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 75005 Paris
- Metro: Place Monge (Line 7)
- Opening Hours: Tuesday to Friday: 12:00 pm – 2:00 pm, 7:30 pm – 11:00 pm, Saturday: 12:00 pm – 2:30 pm, 7:30 pm – 11:00 pm. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
- Website: Au Moulin à Vent
Chapon
Founded in the late 1980s by Patrice Chapon, former ice cream maker to Buckingham Palace, Chapon Chocolaterie (full review here) is renowned for its bean-to-bar expertise. At their Mousse au Chocolat bar, you can choose from six different varieties (including one vegan option), each made from single-origin cocoa sourced from five regions around the world.
The mousses are crafted without preservatives or additives like vanilla, allowing the rich, high-quality chocolate to take center stage.
- Address: 69 Rue du Bac, 75007 Paris
- Metro Station: Rue du Bac (Line 12)
- Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 10:00 am – 2:00 pm, 3:00 pm – 7:00 pm. Closed on Mondays.
- Website: Chapon
Cassoulet
This hearty French bean and-meat stew hails from the southwest of France, and is widely regarded as an ideal (and unpretentious) comfort food. It’s a perfect dish for colder months and seems to be seeing a bit of a Renaissance in Paris (keep reading for more on where to taste in the capital).
A bit of history
For an exploration of cassoulet’s origins and the heated debates surrounding it, Felicity Cloake’s article is a must-read. Southern French towns like Castelnaudary, Carcassonne, and Toulouse all claim it as their own.
According to legend, cassoulet was born when residents of Castelnaudary, under siege during the Hundred Years’ War, pooled their remaining staples to create a meal hearty enough to drive away the English—though historical evidence debunks this tale.
{The Weird History of the Croissant– & is it Really Even French?}
The dish likely evolved from medieval stews, with pork and beans becoming standard by the 16th century. Regional varieties differ significantly: Castelnaudary typically uses confit duck, Carcassonne adds pork, and Toulouse incorporates the city’s famous sausage.
Fierce debates continue over the ideal ingredients to incorporate: should breadcrumbs be allowed? Should you add tomatoes? Meanwhile, purists insist on stirring the crust precisely seven times.
Where to taste in Paris?
L’Assiette
There’s a near-consensus that L’Assiette is the place to head for a traditional cassoulet in Paris. Helmed by Chef David Rathgeber, it’s got plenty of old school charm and zero frills, with polite staff. Country French fare on the menu at this Montparnasse restaurant includes cassoulet, terrines and game dishes, all served in a nostalgic dining room with a beautifuly ornate ceiling and mirrors. The cassoulet, featuring beans and six different meats, arrives big and bubbling, with comforting layers of flavor.
- Address: 181 Rue du Château, 75014 Paris
- Metro: Plaisance (Line 13)
- Hours: Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday: 12:00pm – 2:30pm, 7:00pm – 10:30pm. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
- Website: L’Assiette
Benjamin Schmitt Restaurant
I came across Benjamin Schmitt Restaurant, and specifically the eponymous chef’s cassoulet, via Figaro food journalist Alice Bosio. Schmitt’s cassoulet consists in a delicious earthenware pot full of creamy and richly-flavored beans, nicely browned sausage and decadent duck confit. Aside from that emblematic dish, his menu is modern and seasonal.
- Address: 41 Rue Catherine de la Rochefoucauld, 75009 Paris
- Metro: Saint-Georges (Line 12)
- Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday: 12:00pm – 2:30pm, 7:00pm – 10:00pm; Friday, Saturday: 12:00pm – 2:30pm, 7:00pm – 10:30pm. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
- Website: Benjamin Schmitt Restaurant
Au Trou Gascon
Another recommendation from Bosio (who recently rounded up cassoulet favorites in the aforementioned piece is a restaurant called Au Trou Gascon. This is a fine dining restaurant that hasn’t changed one bit in years (bucking hipster food trends) and celebrates cooking from Southwest France. Bosio especially praises the signature cassoulet here for the quality of the meat (lamb, duck and pork); punctuated with herby green breadcrumbs, it’s reportedly rich and full-bodied.
- Address: 40 Rue Taine, 75012 Paris
- Metro: Daumesnil (Lines 6, 8)
- Hours: Tuesday – Saturday: 12:00pm – 2:00am. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
Crème Brûlée
Here’s another classic French dessert to add to your must-taste list: a dense, eggy custard topped with a brittle, glass-thin and perfectly caramelized layer of sugar. Again, beware those unscrupulous Parisian restaurants that simply reheat industrial crèmes brûlées, rather than making them in-house or sourcing them from a good dessert chef.
A bit of history
A quick look into the history of crème brûlée shows it has complex roots—France, Spain, and England all staking a claim to this silky, satisfyingly crunchy dessert. The custard base has origins in medieval cooking, while the use of eggs as binders for both sweet and savory dishes can be traced back even further. By the Middle Ages, custards were popular as standalone desserts and as fillings in pies and pastries.
A similar dessert appeared in 15th-century England under the name “burnt cream”, while Spain’s crema catalana also dates to the medieval period. But the first recorded recipe for crème brûlée appeared in 1691, in Le Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois by François Massialot (a chef at Versailles).
By the 19th century, the French name and recipe had become widely embraced, making crème brûlée a global favorite.
Where to taste in Paris?
Café Les Deux Gares
Café Les Deux Gares is one of my favorite bistros in Paris, offering excellent modern French cuisine. Their crème brûlée is a standout—silky smooth, flecked with vanilla, and topped (untraditionally but delightfully) with crushed hazelnuts that enhance the caramel’s richness.
- Address: 1 Rue des Deux Gares, 75010 Paris
- Metro: Gare de l’Est (Lines 4, 5, 7)
- Opening Hours: Monday: 9:00 am – 12:00 am, Tuesday to Thursday: 9:00 am – 12:00 am, Friday: 9:00 am – 12:00 am, Saturday: 10:00 am – 12:00 am. Closed on Sundays.
- Website: Café les Deux Gares
La Rôtisserie d’Argent
La Rôtisserie d’Argent is one of the few good places to eat alongside the Seine with outdoor seating during the warmer months. The little sister of the esteemed La Tour d’Argent, this more affordable venue doesn’t skimp on quality. The cooking is straightforward yet exceptional, with the crème brûlée standing out: a classic, creamy custard topped with a glasslike layer of caramelized sugar.
- Address: 19 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris
- Metro: Maubert-Mutualité (Line 10)
- Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 12:00 pm – 2:15 pm, 7:00 pm – 10:30 pm. Closed on Mondays.
- Website: La Rôtisserie d’Argent
Bistrot Darsy
A chic newcomer in the ever-cool Ménilmontant neighborhood near Père-Lachaise Cemetery, Bistrot Darsy serves a crème brûlée that’s dusted with candied almonds. They also offer a well-priced set lunch for under 20 euros (at the time of writing). The atmosphere is young and lively, yet the dishes remain firmly rooted in tradition—well-cooked, well-presented, and full of flavour.
- Address: 15 Rue des Panoyaux, 75020 Paris
- Metro: Ménilmontant (Line 2)
- Opening Hours: Tuesday and Wednesday: 12:00 pm – 2:00 pm, 7:30 pm – 10:00 pm; Thursday and Friday: 12:00 pm – 2:00 pm, 7:30 pm – 10:30 pm; Saturday: 12:00 pm – 2:30 pm, 7:30 pm – 10:30 pm. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
- Website: Bistrot Darsy
Crepes and Galettes
A street-food favorite, crepes and savory buckwheat galettes are also available in abundance throughout Paris. But some creperies are better than others, and you should be wary of ordering crepes or galettes from stands where they don’t make them to order. At best, they’ll taste less fresh; at worst they may be stale.
The distinction between “crêpes” and “galettes” remains a subject of spirited debate in the Brittany region from which both specialties hail. Traditionally, thin crêpes come from Lower Brittany, while thicker, savory galettes are associated with Upper Brittany.
Generally, “galette” refers to savory buckwheat crêpes, while “crêpes” denotes the sweet versions made with white wheat flour. Both are traditionally served with apple juice or Breton cider, a nod to Brittany’s abundant apple harvests.
A bit of history
The origins of crêpes stretch back to antiquity, with early versions appearing as thick galettes made from ground cereals and water. While the Greeks and Romans had their tiganites—a similar dish made with wheat flour, olive oil, honey, and milk—the crêpe as we know it took shape in the Brittany region of France.
{Related: Why is Breton Butter Salted, and so Coveted?}
Breton folklore tells of a 13th-century housewife who accidentally invented the crêpe by spilling buckwheat porridge onto a hot stone. Though this tale may be apocryphal, we do know that crêpes emerged in Brittany around the 13th century, following the introduction of buckwheat from Asia during the Crusades.
Where to taste in Paris?
Tanguy
This local gem in the 10th arrondissement offers an authentic Breton experience away from the crowds. The intimate 20-seat restaurant serves galettes made with 100% organic buckwheat flour sourced directly from the owner’s cousin’s mill.
The results are perfectly thin and crispy, and galettes come with inventive fillings like sheep’s cheese with roasted butternut squash and smoked beef brisket. For dessert, don’t miss the homemade buckwheat ice cream and honey.
- Address: 15 Rue de l’Échiquier, 75010 Paris
- Metro: Bonne Nouvelle (Lines 8 and 9)
- Opening Hours: Tuesday to Saturday: 12:00pm – 2:30pm, 7:00pm – 10:30pm; Sunday: 11:30am – 3:00pm, 7:00pm – 9:30pm. Closed on Mondays.
- Website: Tanguy
Rond
Nestled besides the Parc de Belleville in the gritty-yet-trendy Belleville district, this stylish crêperie draws neighborhood crowds with its seasonal ingredients and impressive selection of calvados and Normandy ciders. The restaurant’s Sunday opening and relaxed atmosphere make it a perfect weekend spot.
- Address: 21 Rue du Transvaal, 75020 Paris
- Metro Station: Pyrénées (Line 11)
- Opening Hours: Wednesday to Saturday: 12:00pm – 10:30pm, Sunday: 12:00pm – 4:00pm. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Crêperie Le Goéland d’Aligre
Located near the bustling Marché d’Aligre food market, Goéland d’Aligre merges traditional Breton flavors with Lebanese influences. Think zaatar and goat cheese galettes alongside classic galettes “complètes” filled with cheese, ham and fried eggs. The homemade salted caramel crêpe is also a must-try.
- Address: 10 Place d’Aligre, 75012 Paris
- Metro Station: Ledru-Rollin (Line 8)
- Opening Hours: Tuesday to Saturday: 10:30am – 2:15pm, 6:00pm – 10:15pm; Sunday: 10:30am – 2:15pm. Closed on Mondays.
For more suggestions on excellent creperies in Paris, see our full separate feature.
Coq au vin (chicken in wine)
Popularized in the English-speaking world by by Julia Child, Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle in 1961, when their iconic recipe for coq au vin in Mastering the Art of French Cooking elevating the traditional French dish to an international classic, this tender, wine-braised chicken is a brasserie favorite.
A bit of history
One popular tale claims that coq au vin, literally meaning “rooster in wine,” was first prepared for Julius Caesar during his campaigns in France, though evidence suggests the stew-like dish dates back even further.
The dish is often associated with Burgundy, where the tradition of slow-cooking meat in the region’s red wine helped define its flavor profile. However, a formal recipe for coq au vin didn’t appear in writing until the 20th century.
Where to taste in Paris?
Le Coq & Fils
I live in close range of Coq et Fils, and like this poultry house enough to have taken my family here for our Christmas lunch last year. The service is always warm, and the poultry is excellent. The chicken and game are presented before being served, along with simple, well-done sides like frites, potato purée and seasonal vegetables. Their coq au vin is particularly good, served a rich sauce and the added touch of confit purple garlic.
- Address: 98 Rue Lepic, 75018 Paris
- Metro: Blanche (Line 2), Lamarck-Caulaincourt (Line 12)
- Hours: Monday – Sunday: 12:00pm – 3:00pm, 6:30pm – 11:00pm
- Website: Les Coqs & Fils
Auberge Bressane
The aforementioned Auberge Bressane is another solid choice for coq au vin. Their dish is well-regarded for its rich sauce and tender meat, served, as is often the case with coq au vin and boeuf bourguignon, alongside pasta.
- Address: 16 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, 75007 Paris
- Metro: École Militaire (Line 8)
- Opening Hours: Monday to Friday: 12:00 – 14:30 & 19:30 – 22:15, Saturday 19:30 – 22:15, Sunday: 12:00 – 14:30 & 19:30 – 22:15
Buvette
Buvette, a cutesy bistro in South Pigalle (see our full guide), serves modern takes on classic French dishes. It’s not the Instagram sensation it once was, but their coq au vin remains a standout. Served in a ramekin with creamy dauphinoise potatoes, this makes for a comforting and delicious dish.
- Address: 28 Rue Henry Monnier, 75009 Paris
- Metro: Pigalle (Line 2, Line 12)
Hours: Monday: 9:00 AM – 11:00 PM, Tuesday – Wednesday: 9:00 AM – 11:00 PM, Thursday – Friday: 9:00 AM – 12:00 AM, Saturday: 10:00 AM – 12:00 AM, Sunday: 9:00 AM – 11:00 PM. - Website: Buvette
Raclette
When I first moved to France, I was tickled to learn that many French people receive a raclette machine as a gift for their 21st birthday– allowing them to easily make this simple Alpine dish of melted cheese and potatoes with minimal effort.
While I missed out on that tradition, I finally bought one for our house this autumn, which has been a lot of fun. Raclette parties are a winter essential in Paris, helping to make the chilly months more enjoyable. However, raclette is not just for the home; during winter, restaurants are packed with groups celebrating birthdays or the festive season.
Raclette traditionally involves melting a large wheel of cheese by an open fire or a special heating element, then scraping it over boiled potatoes, cornichons (small pickles), and grilled onions.
At home, raclette machines offer a similar experience but allow you to melt individual portions of cheese and grill vegetables and meats. In Paris, you can find both styles of raclette.
{Related: Paris in the Winter}
A bit of history
The term ‘raclette’ comes from the French verb racler, meaning “to scrape’” referring to the practice of scraping melted cheese onto plates of potatoes—a custom that continues today. The cheese itself has centuries of history, originating in Switzerland’s Valais region, where it was first made by shepherds to preserve milk during the winter.
Where to taste in Paris?
Pain Vin Fromages
Pain Vin Fromages is my go-to spot when I’m with a large group of friends or family looking to enjoy raclette, fondue, and other cheese-heavy dishes. I’ve mostly visited for fondue (which follows the same melted cheese concept), but their raclette is also excellent, with a great selection of cheeses.
The restaurant is always busy, both with locals and tourists, so it’s best to book ahead—and remember to confirm your reservation by responding to their email (speaking from experience).
- Address: 3 Rue Geoffroy l’Angevin, 75004 Paris
- Metro: Hôtel de Ville (Line 1)
Hours: Wednesday – Sunday: 12:00 PM – 12:00 AM. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. - Website: Pain, Vin, Fromage
Monbleu Père Lacheese
Monbleu is both a fromagerie and a bistro offering a wide selection of cheeses from the Rhône-Alpes region, handpicked by Pierre Gay, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France who grew up in the Alps.
{Related: Our Favorite Cheese Shops in Paris}
When winter arrives, their all-you-can-eat raclette is one of the best in Paris, featuring a range of fun flavors like truffle, black garlic and Espelette pepper.
- Address: 151 bis Rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris
- Metro: Voltaire (Line 9)
Hours: Monday: 5:00 PM – 12:00 AM, Tuesday – Saturday: 11:00 AM – 12:00 AM, Sunday: 11:00 AM – 12:00 AM. - Website: Monbleu
Le Chalet Savoyard
Le Chalet Savoyard is a cozy, Alpine-inspired restaurant in the 11th arrondissement, popular among locals and tourists alike. Aside from raclette, they serve other cheesy favorites such as tartiflette with porcini mushrooms, fondue, and Mont d’Or, a raw milk cheese often baked with herbs and garlic.
- Address: 58 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris
- Metro: Charonne (Line 9)
Hours: Sunday – Thursday 12:00 PM – 2:30 PM, 7:00 PM – 11:00 PM, Friday & Saturday: 7:00 PM – 12:00 AM. - Website: Le Chalet Savoyard
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Paris Unlocked Associate Editor Rachel Naismith is a former micro-bakery owner and manager of a Glasgow-based food bank. She currently lives in Paris where she writes about the city’s shifting culinary landscape. Her work has appeared in publications including Palate Magazine, Travel Mag and the HIP Paris Blog.
You can see more about Rachel at rachelnaismith.com.
