Paris in November: Why to Embrace the Short, Cozy Days

Last Updated on November 23, 2023

Many tourists don’t even consider visiting Paris in November, fearing they’ll be treated to icy rain, miserably dark days and grumpy, sleepy locals. But while it’s certainly not for everyone– and you occasionally do encounter all of the above (I can’t lie)– the 11th month of the year offers some unexpected charm, too.

In November, the city celebrated for its light enters into a period of relative hibernation. This is waning season. The days grow short, with an average of only nine hours of daylight. Under such conditions, the locals tend to spend much more time indoors. The winter holiday season only starts to (literally) illuminate things toward the end of the month (see more below)– but until then, it’s steadily increasing darkness and a looming sense of quiet.

{Why Paris in the Fall Can be Ideal– & How to Make the Most of it} 

Yet there can also be joy and coziness in embracing the wane. This is an ideal time of year to really get to know Paris “behind the curtains”– those put up by the tourist industry, that is.

The Vibe: Intimate and Calm

I’d venture to say that November (perhaps along with January and February) is the month that’s most authentically Parisian, in that tourism is at a low ebb and the city turns inward a bit, focused more on locals and their well-being and entertainment than on visitors’.

{Why There’s Really No “Best” Time of Year to Visit Paris} 

Accordingly, there’s an unusual emphasis on traditional activities that bring people together in more intimate and laid-back ways. Think basement wine bars and warm cinemas. Think cafes with steamed-up windows and jazz music playing faintly in the background, as the clank of silverware and hum of conversation fills the air.

Think smaller exhibits and poetry readings, or warm French crepes and galettes gobbled down alongside Breton cider in small, rough ceramic bowls. Think wandering through the elegant covered passageways of the Grands Boulevards, admiring the old-world window displays and escaping the rain outside.

While Parisians have, like the rest of us, only recently discovered the concept of “hygge” imported from Denmark, there’s a French brand of coziness that’s always been present in the culture– and it certainly reigns in November.

Have I piqued your interest? If so, keep reading to figure out whether a low-season sojourn in Paris might actually be ideal. In addition to offering my advice on what to see in the eleventh month and tips for packing your suitcase, I also suggest general shows and exhibits to beeline to in 2018.

What are the Pros and Cons of a November Trip to Paris?

I’ve already mentioned the opportunity to explore the city in a more authentic way as one benefit. This is also an excellent time to de-stress, carving out time in your busy schedule to read, contemplate some gorgeous examples of fine art and architecture, tuck into a plate of delicious, warming French dishes, or bundle up and enjoy an early winter walk.

The crowds thin considerably in November, a fact that many will love. While the city is busy year-round, this is one of the best times of year to visit if you’re somewhat claustrophobic, and/or loathe long lines.

On a related note, prices for air and rail tickets as well as hotel or B&B stays tend to be lower at this time of year. Still, I suggest booking early to get the best deals.

To get started, you can compare prices and current deals on flights and hotels at Skyscanner, or book train tickets and passes to Paris (at Rail Europe).

Another benefit? If you can’t come at year-end, a late November visit can still allow you to take in some of the winter holiday festivities. Read on to learn how.

And the cons?

Every month has its downsides, and November might be considered to have an unusual number of these.

Shorter daylight hours and a significant dip in average temperatures from October makes outdoor activities less attractive. This is not the best time of year to attempt a lot of day trips from Paris, since you’ll have to rush to get in as much daylight as possible.

Cold rain, sleet and snow is common in November, and can be quite unpleasant. You may find yourself wondering why you didn’t come at a more clement time of year.

And while it’s true that the city has a more authentic feel in its darkest month, locals can be a bit withdrawn and unwilling to engage. People tend to be tired and just want to get home after a long day at work.

Whereas a spring trip to Paris might find you chatting away with strangers on rooftop terraces or in parks, in November the atmosphere is degrees less sociable.

November Weather in Paris: What’s the Mercury Doing?

As I mention above, temperatures take quite a dip in November, especially near month’s end. Icy rain can put a literal damper on outdoor plans, while in past years occasional snow has taken aback locals unaccustomed to it so early in the year.

By the same token, there have occasionally been “heat waves” in November– the mercury climbed to 23 degrees C in 2015 at one point, which is more typical of May or September!

It’s actually a bit less wet this month than it is in late spring or summer. Still, there’s still a fair amount of rainfall, which means you should always come prepared for it.

Minimum Temperature: 8 degrees C/46.4 degrees F
Maximum Temperature: 11 degrees C/52 degrees F (please note that warmer maximum temperatures have been logged in recent years)
Average temp: 9.5 degrees C/49 degrees F
Average monthly precipitation: 65 mm/2.5 inches (totaling around eleven days per month)
Average Daylight hours: 9

How to Pack For a November Trip to Paris?

To contend with colder days and less sunlight to warm you up, make sure to pack plenty of sweaters, warm pants or wool skirts and tights.

Waterproof jackets, shoes and a good, thick scarf is a must.  Icy wind off the Seine might strike you as romantic, but if you have a bare neck it can be as unpleasant as Hades on a winter’s day.

Please don’t overlook the need for warm, waterproof shoes. When it rains, large, splashy puddles tend to form in some neighborhoods, and the last thing you want is to have to trudge around the city with wet, numb feet and sopping socks. The thought of it alone provokes shivers…

One thing I also recommend is a decent thermos, so you can brave the chilly conditions and walk around the city, sipping hot tea or coffee to stay motivated and warm.

Best Things to See and Do in November: A Few Suggestions

While, as I’ve already argued, November affords unusual opportunities to just relax and take in the world, there’s no shortage of stimulation in the capital. Take note of my suggestions below, and then perhaps head over to  the tourist office website for a more complete list of events and activities in November.

1. Huddle up around a good glass of wine (or other warm drinks). 

Wine isn’t generally produced in Paris, but the city’s many charming wine bars are ideal places to huddle indoors with friends or travel companions, perhaps enjoying a spicy, warming glass of Burgundy or Cotes du Rhone red while tucking into a plate of creamy cheeses and crusty bread.

Read related:  Cozy Things to Do in Paris During the Winter 

Wine bars I particularly love and recommend include Le Verre Volé (67 Rue de Lancry, Metro République or Jacques-Bonsergent), where the small plates are as delicious and beautifully prepared as the wine selection is discerning and creative; Frenchie Bar à Vins (6 Rue du Nil, Metro Sentier) where British patrons offer an interesting variety of French and international wines paired (if desired) with English cheeses; and Le Baron Rouge (1 Rue Théophile Roussel, Metro Faidherbe-Chaligny), right off the beloved Aligre market.

Enjoy the Beaujolais Nouveau Season

November is also Beaujolais Nouveau season, when makers of this young red wine release their latest and bars around the city offer tastings, live music and other events.

Generally, the festivities kick off on the third Thursday of the month at the stroke of midnight (Thursday, November 17th in 2022). For Beaujolais-related tastings and happenings this year in Paris, see my full guide. It’s generally updated sometime in October.

Of course, if you don’t drink, there are still plenty of ways to warm up and take in some charming surroundings. See this page for a list of excellent cafes to hunker down in, and this one for suggestions on where to indulge in some of the best afternoon tea in Paris.

2. Bask in photography exhibits and trends.   

Photography fan? If so, November is an ideal month to be in town. First, beeline to Paris Photo, the single-largest annual show in the world dedicated to the medium. Held each year under the grandiose rooftop of the Grand Palais, the event brings together hundreds of photographers, galleries, buyers and amateurs.

It’s a fantastic way to see work from promising new lenses as well as legendary ones– and perhaps even come away with a small acquisition. Some, especially works in smaller formats, are affordable for modest budgets.

In 2023, Paris Photo will be held from November 9th to 12th.

Also in November (some years) is the Salon de la Photo, a massive show at the Porte de Versailles convention center at the city’s southern edge.

This one’s worth a morning or afternoon (and the trip south) for anyone practicing photography whether as a hobby or as a professional ambition. Simple admirer? The convention is also a good place to make an acquisition.

(Note: In 2023 the Salon de la Photo was held in October rather than in November).

3. Take in a film or two (or three).  

With over 300 movies playing a week at any given time, Paris remains a stomping ground (or lurking ground, as it were) for film aficionados.

Of course, a cold, dark, forbidding month like November provides the perfect excuse to spend a whole afternoon or evening at the cinema.

And if you end up hopping between a couple of classic old theatres in the Latin Quarter (like the Champo, shown above), you’ll be exploring an essential thread in the Parisian cultural and historic fabric. So no need to feel guilty about staying indoors for a spell…

See our full guide to the best movie theatres and cinemas in Paris for ideas on where to get lost in the dark.

Shows, Seasonal Events & Exhibits: My Picks in November 2023

It may be low season, but arts and culture still thrive this month. See this page for an almost-complete list of shows worth seeing this month and beyond — and consider my picks below.

Amedeo Modigliani: A Painter and His Retailer (at the Musée de l’Orangerie)

One of 2023’s most eagerly-awaited exhibitions, this retrospective on the Expressionist painter Amedeo Modigliani at the Musée de l’Orangerie is a definite must see this winter.

Notably celebrated for his abstract portraits inspired by traditional African sculpture, Modigliani is given full attention in this in-depth show, which highlights how his lifelong friendship with art dealer and gallerist Paul Guillaume helped catapult the painter to worldwide renown.

It showcases numerous masterpieces from the Italian-born Modigliani, from paintings to drawings, sculptures and other media, in addition to personal correspondence and other artifacts related to the artist.

• Location: Musée de l’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries, 75001 Paris
• When: September 20, 2023 through January 15, 2024

Naples in Paris: The Louvre Invites the Capodimonte Museum

The Louvre Museum has teamed up with the Capodimonte Museum in Naples, Italy for a blockbuster exhibition showcasing some of the greatest masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance, from Michaelangelo to Raphael. Some 60 masterpieces from the Bourbon and Farnese collections await visitors.

In addition to its some 60 masterpieces from the Bourbon and Farnese collections, the exhibition also sees a wing of the Louvre temporarily transformed to resemble a Neapolitan palace.

• Location: Musée du Louvre, 75001 Paris
• When: Through January 8, 2024

Paris Christmas Markets and Holiday Festivities (from Late November)

Image credit: Jean-Pierre Dalbera, Creative Commons 2.0 license 

Late November marks the opening of several holiday markets around the capital, so if you’re hoping for a bit of seasonal warmth and light, you’re in luck if your trip falls toward month end.

To find out which markets are set to open in 2023, see our complete guide to celebrating Christmas in Paris. Also be sure to look for updates on other seasonal events this month– from lights and window displays to ice-skating and “Santa’s Village” events for kids–  at the Paris Tourist Office page. 

Finally, peruse our guide to French Christmas traditions to enjoy while abroad and at home, to bring back a bit of the magic of “Noël” with you– or generate some if you can’t make it to France this year.

*Disclaimer: This post includes a few affiliate links. If you book travel-related products or services though them, it comes at no cost to you, but will fund more in-depth features and tips at this site. Thanks!    

Like This? Pin & Share

Courtney Traub

Courtney Traub is the Founder and Editor of Paris Unlocked. She’s a longtime Paris resident who now divides her time (as well as she can manage) between the French capital and Norwich, UK. Co-author of the 2012 Michelin Green Guide to Northern France & the Paris Region, she has written and reported stories for media outlets including Radio France Internationale, Reed Business Information, WWD, and The Associated Press. She has also been interviewed as an expert on Paris and France by the BBC, Australian Broadcasting Corporation, Le Figaro, Matador Network and other publications. In addition to pursuing an insatiable interest in French culture, history, food and art, Courtney is a scholar of literature and cultural history whose essays and reviews have appeared in various forums.