Most locals recognize Paris in September as the true new year. Following a long summer hiatus, residents return home from vacation and get back to work. This is the season of turbo-charged ideas and irrepressible energy, and you can almost feel it in the air.
Many tourists choose spring and summer to explore the capital, but anyone hoping to get in on the action should consider going in the early fall. Known as la rentrée (back to school/work), this one of the best times to mingle with locals and take part in the year’s most-anticipated cultural events– from exhibits to fairs.
Since the weather is still generally on the mild side, you’ll still be able to spend long hours outdoors. Meander through the quaint backstreets of Montmartre or hop on a train for a day trip from Paris: it’s still technically summer until the end of the month.
But this is also the season to contemplate the fleeting, precious quality of both things and time. To cite one of my favorite Kurt Weill songs (best covered by Lou Reed, in my humble opinion):
“It’s a long, long while from May to December/But the days grow short when you reach September/When the autumn weather/Turns the leaves to flame/One hasn’t got the time for the waiting game…”
Keep reading for my full advice on how to fully enjoy your September visit in the city, and to consider the pros and cons of choosing this time of year. You’ll also find advice on how to properly pack your suitcase, info on typical weather conditions and a few picks for exhibits and events in 2020.
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Some Pros and Cons of a September Sojourn
Notre Dame Cathedral in the Fall/Image: Creative Commons
As already mentioned, this is an exciting and stimulating time to be in town. Some of the year’s best exhibits, including inaugural shows at new venues, open to rapt crowds. Many locals are refreshed and at their energetic best after the summer holidays (unless, of course, they’re grouchy about getting back to the grind. You’ll likely feel that vibe as well).
Mild temperatures make it a pleasant time to stroll for hours around the city’s most photogenic places (as well as odd, relatively unchartered corners). Early September is still warm enough for picnics and day trips (more on that below).
And now, a couple of downsides….
But every month has its downsides as well. It’s still high season until early October, so plane and train tickets will continue to be a drain on your budget. For that reasons, it’s important to start comparing travel packages early. Booking months in advance is advised.
Another potential negative point is that conditions can still be remarkably crowded in September– or perhaps even more so than in July and August. Why? The summer season hasn’t quite wound down, yet locals flooding back into town means more cramped conditions in streets, restaurants, the metro etc.
If you’re seeking true quiet and personal space, in other words, you may wish to visit in late October or November. Winter in Paris is also far more relaxed.
Weather in Paris: September Trends & Some Packing Tips
Temperatures in September have historically tended to be mild, although heat waves in recent years have become more frequent. Plan for cool to very warm weather by bringing along layers (more below).
Rainfall is less persistent than in the very wet months of may through July, but you can generally expect at least a few days of rain. The occasional late summer storm is also not uncommon, so be prepared.
Minimum Temperature: 13 degrees C/55.4 degrees F
Maximum Temperature: 21 degrees C/70 degrees F (please note that much warmer max temps have been registered in past years)
Average temp: 17 degrees C/62.6 degrees F
Average monthly precipitation: 46 mm/1.8 inches (totaling around seven days per month)
Daylight hours: 12.5
How to Pack For Your September Trip?
Because temperatures can fluctuate between brisk to quite warm, it’s a good idea to bring clothing you can layer. Pack a couple of pairs of long-sleeved shirts and trousers alongside warmer-weather tees and even skirts or shorts.
Don’t forget decent raingear for wet and cool days: a good waterproof jacket and shoes that won’t let water seep in if you have to traipse through a few puddles here and there.
Even though temps are generally milder in September, the sun can still be fierce. Pack a moderate-SPF sunscreen to apply even on overcast or cloudy days.
Best Things to See and Do in September?
October is technically when the arts and culture calendar really revs up, but there are plenty of stimulating things to see and do in early fall, too. Below are just a few highlights I suggest you focus on. I also recommend consulting this page at the tourist office for a more extensive calendar of events.
Have a late-summer, aimless stroll or tranquil picnic.
This is still prime season for long walks and lazy picnics. Explore some of the lesser-known corners of the city, from the village-like Butte aux Cailles neighborhood to the area along the Canal de l’Ourcq and the verdant, quirky Parc de la Villette. Let yourself indulge in the wanderings of a true flaneur— a city wanderer with no particular aim.
I also recommend sprawling out somewhere green for a late summer picnic. Stock up on delicious French cheeses and pastries from a good local bakery, or check out my guide to some of the best street food and fast food in Paris for suggestions on portable picnic fare.
Get a Peek Inside Opulent City Buildings During European Heritage Days
Ever wonder what the secret interior corridors of Paris City Hall (pictured above) look like? Or those of the Palais de Justice and the National Assembly? If so, take a peek inside these and other opulent places in the city during the free European Heritage Days event.
Held each year across France and Europe on the third weekend of September, “Les Journées du Patrimoine” makes the hidden corners of Parisian power and prestige suddenly accessible to the general public. It’s a good opportunity to expand your understanding of the city’s history and internal workings. A few seamy details may even emerge…
In 2023, the Heritage Days will take place from September 16th to 17th.
Go a bit further afield to snag the last days of summer.
With summer fast on the wane, you’ll likely want to take advantage of the daylight and warm temperatures for a good day trip or two. Luckily, several worthwhile destinations are only a train ride away. Go roam around at the elegant Chateau Vaux-le-Vicompte, walking through its lovely gardens and exploring the palace’s nooks and crannies.
At the Palais de Versailles, meanwhile, the “Musical Waters” event combines musical performances with elaborate light and water shows overlooking the gardens and fountains. This is a very pleasant way to see off the waning summer, needless to say….
A slightly more decadent idea: Why not go spend a day wine tasting in Champagne or Burgundy and take in some of the harvest celebrations there? Trains leave daily from Paris and you can get to the towns of Reims or Beaune in just a couple of hours. You can search for and book trains here.
For a full list of ideas, see my complete guide to the best day trips just a short train ride from Paris.
Arts & exhibits: A Couple of Highlights in September 2023
There are usually a few noteworthy shows around town at “la rentrée“. See this page for a more comprehensive list after browsing my picks below.
Amedeo Modigliani: A Painter and His Retailer (at the Musée de l’Orangerie)
One of the flagship exhibitions of the year in Paris, this monumental show at the Musée de l’Orangerie spotlights the work and professional life of Expressionist master Amedeo Modigliani, best known for his unearthly portraits with techniques inspired by traditional African sculpture.
The show, which opens in late September, probes the strong ties of friendship and collaboration between Modigliani and Paul Guillaume, the gallerist and dealer who would become one of the painter’s strongest advocates and would help to secure his international renown.
The exhibition includes some of the painter’s most-exciting works, including portraits, female nudes and sculptures, as well as documentation and letters.
- Location: Musée de l’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries, 75001 Paris
- When: September 20, 2023 through January 15, 2024
Paris Rive Droite/Rive Gauche: The Seine Photo Exhibition at the Roger Viollet Gallery
Have a dual interest in both Parisian history and photography? If so, eke out some time in your trip to pay a visit to this fascinating show at the Roger Viollet photographic agency. The exhibit probes the history of the French capital, through the specific lens of daily life on and around the banks of the Seine River.
Spanning a period from around 1880 to 1960, the show includes hundreds of photos that will give you an in-depth look at what life may have been like for Parisians between these decades, amid periods of intense and profound changes.
You can browse a large number of prints for purchase at the gallery following the show.
- Dates: Through September 20th, 2023
- Where: Galerie Roger Viollet , 6 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris (Metro Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Saint-Michel)
Ready to Take the Plunge and Book Your Trip?
Congratulations. But before you do, make sure you consider a travel insurance policy. As I detail in my piece on staying safe and healthy in Paris, travel insurance can ensure that you’ll be covered in case you have an accident or require medical treatment while abroad.
World Nomads is a company that offers numerous policies and instant quotes. You can compare and purchase travel insurance policies here.
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