Last Updated on May 8, 2026
As some say in Paris, I’m a Montmartroise—that is, I live in Montmartre. More precisely, in the quieter area known as Lamarck, on the north side of the butte, the steep hill crowned by Sacré-Cœur. Like many residents, I didn’t so much choose the neighborhood as land here. I liked the apartment; I didn’t know much about the area. But after three years (and more agonizing uphill bike rides than I care to count), I’ve grown very attached to it.
Montmartre conjures different things for different people. For some, it’s cobbled streets, dormant windmills, vineyards and sleepy village charm. For others, it’s tourists jostling for selfies or buying landscape paintings from artists operating on the Place du Tertre—a spot most locals avoid.
Then there’s the “bourgeois-bohemian” side: trendy coffee shops, organic grocery shops, artist studios wedged between Haussmannian buildings. There are other, less-noticed layers too: Basketball courts spilling over with teenagers after school’s out, quiet gardens and squares well set off from the street, and family-run butchers and boulangeries with loyal clientele spanning generations.
The reality is that Montmartre is all of these things, and more. Keep reading for a bit of history, then for my suggestions on what to see & do in the area, including where to eat, drink and shop.
A Bit of Neighborhood History
Montmartre wasn’t always part of Paris. Until 1860, it was a rural village atop a hill beyond the city limits, covered with vineyards, greenery and windmills. When it was annexed into the capital in January 1860, the area kept its independent spirit. The industrial era brought migrants, factory workers and political dissidents.
In fact, the area was once a stronghold of working-class radicalism. During the Paris Commune of 1871 (see our full explainer), Montmartre became the cradle of the rebellion: revolutionaries seized cannons stationed on the butte, sparking a radical—if short-lived—experiment in self-government.
That spirit hasn’t entirely vanished, with vibrant murals demanding more just housing in Paris sharing wall space with posters calling to defend “les sans-papiers” (immigrants with no legal papers); anarchist stickers are plastered on plenty of lampposts.
By the late 1800s, cheap rent and a relaxed atmosphere beyond the reach of Paris’s strict regulations drew artists, musicians, and writers to the hill. Montmartre’s cabarets and dance halls stayed open later, alcohol flowed—perfect for bohemian life. Van Gogh, Modigliani, Picasso, and Toulouse-Lautrec all passed through its studios and frequented fabled establishments such as Le Chat Noir.
The old windmills were repurposed as gathering spots (most famously the Moulin de la Galette, where artists and locals mingled over wine and late night songs). Renoir famously painted the guinguette (musical cafe) there in an 1876 painting. Van Gogh also depicted it in an 1886 painting, shown below.
Today, tourists far outnumber artists on the hill. But while gentrification has transformed much of the area, Montmartre’s bucolic past and artistic heritage continue to shape its identity through its surviving vineyard, windmills, independent galleries, street art and ceramics ateliers dotting the neighborhood.
Getting There & Orientation
Montmartre is situated in northeastern Paris, and makes up just part of the large 18th arrondissement. The area most consider as the “Montmartre village” extends from the hilltop butte with its iconic Sacré-Cœur, down to the buzzing streets around the Abbesses Metro stops.
The main roads up the butte include Rue Lepic, Rue des Abbesses, Rue Caulaincourt, and Rue Lamarck. The area around Abbesses is often considered the heart of Montmartre, but the less-touristy areas at the foot of the hill, like Lamarck and Jules Joffrin, also have a strong local feel and are very much worth exploring.
Surrounding neighborhoods include Clignancourt to the north, Barbès to the east, and Pigalle to the south.
{See related: Exploring South Pigalle, from Bakeries & Shops to Bars}
Today, the 18th arrondissement as a whole is one of the most diverse in Paris. Neighborhoods like the Goutte d’Or (known locally as Little Africa), Château Rouge, Jules Joffrin, and (my own!) Lamarck-Caulaincourt each have their own identity. You’ll find West African tailors and grocers, bakeries specializing in North African pastries, young families, students, and creatives—all overlapping in a way that feels both chaotic and enticing.
Main Metro Stops & Transport Options
- Metro Line 2: Anvers, Barbès-Rochechouart, Blanche, Pigalle, Lamarck-Caulaincourt
- Metro Line 12: Abbesses, Jules Joffrin, Lamarck-Caulaincourt
- Metro Line 13: Guy Môquet, La Fourche, Place de Clichy
- Buses: 30, 31, 80, 85
- Funicular: From Place Saint-Pierre to Sacré-Cœur (uses a regular metro ticket)
Practical tip: Montmartre’s steep streets and staircases make it less ideal for scooters, strollers and bikes, unless you’re feeling particularly athletic. The funicular is a good option if you want to avoid the infamous steps up to the Sacré-Cœur.
Taking the funicular also means you’ll likely avoid what many tourists report as annoying, sometimes borderline-harrassing invitations to buy trinkets from illicit souvenir sellers (see more in our guide to avoiding tourist traps and scams in the capital).
Monuments, Museums & Other Local Attractions
Montmartre is densely packed with cultural landmarks—both the iconic sites that draw lots of visitors and the hidden spots known mainly to locals.
The Sacré-Cœur Basilica (35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre) sits at the top of the hill, its signature white dome visible from across the city. The facade has often been compared to a giant meringue or creampuff by Parisians, who have come to embrace it nonetheless.
Completed in 1914, it offers panoramic views that are worth the climb (or the funicular ride). There are crowds on sunny days and plenty of stairs, but the interior is beautiful and free to enter. You can pay extra to climb the dome for even better views. Getting there early in the morning is best to avoid crowds.
Place du Tertre (full guide here) is a tourist hotspot but a historically important one: many of Montmartre’s artists exhibited their work here in the early 20th century. The square is liveliest in the afternoon when the portrait artists are working. If you want to explore it but avoid the crowds, try the early morning.
Musée de Montmartre (12 Rue Cortot) is housed in a 17th-century house that once welcomed artists like Renoir and Suzanne Valadon. The museum is charming, but the real draw are the gardens which offer a quiet escape and views over the neighbouring vineyard. Stop at Café Renoir afterwards for a coffee and cake on their pretty summer terrace.
Dalí Paris Museum on rue Poulbot (#11) houses over 300 of Salvador Dalí’s works in a small, intimate space. It’s well curated and offers a nice break from the crowds outside. The modern, clean interior showcases the artist’s sculptures and sketches beautifully.
Le Mur des Je t’aime (the “I Love You Wall”) in Square Jehan Rictus features the phrase “I love you” written in over 250 languages. Created by Frédéric Baron and Claire Kito, it’s worth a peek if you’re roaming around the Abbesses Metro stop. It’s flanked by a lovely green square, ideal for a quick break.
Le Clos Montmartre (18 Rue des Saules), Paris’s last working vineyard, is hidden behind the Musée de Montmartre. They produce around 500 bottles annually, sold at auction during October’s Vendanges de Montmartre, a much-beloved annual wine festival. The vineyard is usually closed to the public, with only occasional tours (mostly in autumn for the occasion of the Vendanges), but you can walk around the perimeter.
While the Moulin Rouge gets lots of attention, look for the area’s other windmills as you climb toward the summit. Moulin Radet, now above the previously mentioned Moulin de la Galette (83 rue Lepic, now open as a restaurant) and Blute-Fin (5 Hameau des artistes) are survivors from among the dozen windmills that dotted the hill. The Moulin Radet, dating to 1717, was used for grinding flour.
Place Dalida (on the corner of Rue de l’Abreuvoir): Situated in close reach of the Clos Montmartre vineyard, this peaceful and remarkably pretty square pays tribute to the French “chanson” star of the same name, who’s beloved by the French-speaking world but relatively-little known to English-speakers. The surrounding streets and lanes feature some of Montmartre’s most bucolic lanes, secretive gardens and eye-catching houses.
Cinéma Studio 28 (10 rue Tholozé; full guide here) opened in 1928 and is one of the city’s oldest cinemas, and has fascinating ties to surrealist artists such as Jean Cocteau.
The cinema show films in V.O. (version originale—with French subtitles, not dubbed), and the program offers a mix of both classics and new releases. The garden bar is perfect for a pre-film drink.
Cimetière de Montmartre (20 Av. Rachel; full guide here) often gets overlooked in favor of its more famous sister cemetery at Père Lachaise, but it’s atmospheric and a pleasant place to wander for an hour. The final resting place of Degas, Berlioz, Zola, Dumas, and singer Dalida, it’s usually quieter than Père Lachaise.
Rue de l’Abreuvoir is one of Montmartre’s most photogenic streets. The pink house (La Maison Rose) at the corner, and the cobblestoned lanes around it leading towards the Sacré-Cœur, have made it popular with Instagram enthusiasts, but an early morning visit will allow you to explore in peace.
Lapin Agile (22 rue des Saules) is a tiny cabaret in a rustic cottage that’s been around since 1860. This was where Picasso and other struggling artists would drink, often paying with sketches when money was tight. It still hosts traditional musical performances most evenings.
Le Bateau Lavoir (13 rue Ravignan, at the corner of Place Emile Goudeau): While it can’t be visited today, this building houses Picasso’s former studio in Montmartre, and it was also leased by artists including Modigliani and Juan Gris. The lush square, lined with trees and sloping poetically downward, is another ideal spot for a rest after climbing the Montmartre hills and endless staircases.
{Recommended: A few excellent self-guided walking tours of artists’ studios around Montmartre}
Halle Saint-Pierre (2 rue Ronsard) is well off the main tourist track. This 19th-century market hall now houses a museum of outsider art, featuring self-taught artists. The basement bookshop is a treasure trove for unusual art books, and you can grab a coffee there while browsing.
Places to Eat in Montmartre
As a resident in the area I’m admittedly biased, but I do think Montmartre has some of the most excellent places to eat in Paris. Like everywhere in the city, it’s also full of tourist traps– and nothing breaks my heart more than hearing someone paid dearly for a sad crêpe or tough steak-frites. Stick to these suggestions, though and you’ll eat very well.
(Please note that information on these establishments was accurate at the time of publication, but details may change at any time)
Coffee & Breakfast / Brunch
Clove (14 rue Chappe) is a proper neighborhood café; the couple who own it seem to know everyone who walks through the door. They serve serious coffee in a calm, cool space. Ella (one of the owners) makes the ceramics herself, and the almond croissants usually sell out by mid-morning on weekends. There’s a regular mix of locals, solo readers, and young families hanging out.
Closer to the Lamarck metro stop, Two Doors (27 rue Francœur) is a fun pitstop—especially if you like being surrounded by very cute dogs (there’s always a parade of them here). I always come for the milk chocolate peanut cookie and iced orange cold brew (pictured above).
I’ve waxed lyrical before about Atelier P1 (157 rue Marcadet) The viennoiseries sold here—especially the all-butter croissants and the pain au chocolats loaded with hazelnutty chocolate—are among my favourites in the city.
{Related: Where to Find Some of the Most Delicious Pastries & Viennoisseries in Paris}
Right next door at their adjacent brunch spot P1 Bouche (#151), brunches feature seasonal salads and tartines made with their delightful sourdough breads, topped with things like eggs, mozzarella and tomatoes, homemade pesto and more. It’s pretty packed on weekends, so book ahead for P1 Bouche or grab a pastry to go and head to the nearby Square Léon-Serpollet.
Skip the Instagram queue at La Maison Rose and head to Les 5 Marches (12 rue Girardon), tucked around the corner. Locals love this low-key spot for coffee, homemade cakes, or shakshuka in the sun. It sits opposite a quiet little square, perfect for reading or regrouping after navigating the crowds up top.
Lunch
Épi (164 rue Marcadet) is an organic épicerie with a particularly interesting wine selection and a short daily lunch menu—baguettes stuffed with marinated vegetables and fermier cheeses, fresh salads, lasagnes, and home-baked desserts. The food is made with love and care, and the produce is exceptional.
{Related: Where to Eat While Vegetarian or Vegan in Paris?}
Le Maquis (53 rue des Cloys) has recently been much fussed-about on social media, and is still one of the best-value lunch spots around. There’s one dish on offer per course, so choices aren’t abundant– but the cooking is confident and the setting feels warmly traditional yet fresh. I’ve had lovely fish here, and always say yes to the dessert.
A.Lea (39 rue Lamarck) serves polished, seasonal dishes with careful plating and a lunch formule (set menu) that’s great value for food this refined. I recommend it often—the menu is fairly small and changes daily.
Mehmet (43 rue Ramey) offers small Turkish plates packed with flavor—garlicky kebabs, bright mezze, labneh and pickles. It’s a short, punchy menu and everything’s delicious. Don’t skip the sticky, delightfully buttery baklava.
Further north, Champion (55 rue Championnet) has a casual canteen feel with a changing menu featuring Asian classics including banh mi sandwhiches and Thai curries, alongside homemade pasta dishes. The menu is a bit chaotic, but the dishes are reliably tasty and full of character. There’s a decent selection of craft beers too, and it’s always crammed with locals.
For light, modern Greek food, Etsi (23 rue Eugène Carrière) is exceptional—here you can expect salads, fish, herby mezze platters and lots of other vibrant dishes. This is a good option if you want a break from cream and butter! The staff are friendly here, and the restaurant is particularly atmospheric and lively in the evening. Sunday lunchtimes are a bit more of a family affair.
Dinner
Double (87 rue Lamarck) is a relatively new, tiny spot (just 13 seats) with an open kitchen and a short, often surprising, menu combining Japanese and Italian flavours and techniques—expect lots of citrus, house-made pasta, and well-made sauces.
Chantoiseau (63 rue Lepic) often goes under the radar. Not far from Sacré-Cœur, it’s my go-to recommendation for those looking to eat near the monument. The cooking is fairly traditional (lots of well-cooked meat and fish alongside simple, elegant desserts). It’s not flashy, but the service is slick and the plates are balanced and superbly executed. The outdoor terrace is lovely during the warmer months.
Nakatsu (25 rue Ramey) is a Japanese-themed restaurant known for its delicious karaage chicken, but also does good katsu curries and vegetable donburi. It’s casual and cool, and offers generous portions. There’s also a tasty wine selection, with good options by the glass.
Le Coq & Fils (98 rue Lepic) is another great option near the top of the Montmartre butte. I brought my family here a few Christmases ago, and the roasted chicken was exceptional. The focus is on different types of poultry served with excellent sides—golden potatoes, seasonal vegetables, and well-dressed salads.
Wine & Bars
Comestibles et Marchand de Vins (65 rue du Mont-Cenis) is one of my all-time favorite spots, with great cheese, charcuterie, and a large selection of superb (but not inexpensive) wines. This is perfect for a true Parisian apéro (before-dinner drinks and nibbles).
{Related: Some of Our Favorite Wine Bars in Paris}
Next, I’m going against my earlier advice about avoiding Place du Tertre and recommending Chez Eugène (17 Place du Tertre). Different owners have taken over fairly recently, and it now offers an excellent wine menu and decent traditional plates of food—making it stand out entirely from the touristy offerings surrounding it. If you’re going to have a drink or meal in the square, let it be here.
When you’re in the mood for a cocktail, Hiru (14 rue Duc) is a low-lit, chic bar with pretty bar stools and an excellent tapas menu. The espresso martini is one of the best in Paris.
La Cave Café (134 rue Marcadet) was my first Montmartre regular. There’s a slight dive bar energy, but with decent drinks, moody bartenders, and a crowd that’s refreshingly unpretentious.
Finally, Sobremesa (127 rue Caulaincourt) is lively and fun. Guest chefs rotate every few months—Burmese, Greek, Filipino—and the food is always exciting. There’s good wine, a mix of regulars and newcomers, and the staff are very welcoming.
Shopping & Boutiques
Montmartre has plenty of independent spots and classic French brands if you’re in the mood for a bit of shopping or casual browsing. The neighborhood is made for leisurely wandering (or not-so-leisurely if you’re heading uphill!).
You’ll find charming galleries, vintage shops, and unique boutiques dotted throughout the area. My best advice is just to wander around and take your time—let the neighborhood reveal itself. But here are some places to start.
{Related: Some of the Best Vintage & Secondhand Shops in Paris}
Edible Shopping
The area is peppered with épiceries and independent food shops that locals, including myself, love.
Bonthés (157 rue Marcadet) sells a large selection of teas and herbal infusions (the French are obsessed with them). There’s a charming guy who runs it who is happy to make recommendations and it’s a great spot for unique Parisian gifts.
Shinyapain (41 rue des Trois Frères), run by the lovely Shinya, is open just Thursday to Sunday in the afternoons. It’s a really special place to pick up bread made with care. He posts what’s on offer each day on Post-it notes on his Instagram page- and frequently sells out, so check before you go. Make sure to consider grabbing one of his baked goods (including his cakes made with sourdough) as a mid-afternoon treat.
Not far away is Gilles Marchal (9 rue Ravignan), who makes the best fresh madeleines in unusual and classic flavours—thyme, lemon, lime, caramel and more. They’re all delicious, and travel well if you want to take some home.
Another spot for an afternoon bite is Les Choupettes de ChouChou (27 rue Durantin), which produces gorgeous choux pastries filled with chantilly cream in different flavors. They use organic ingredients and pipe them to order, so they’re fresh and really “more-ish”.
Chez Virginie (54 rue Damrémont) is every local’s favorite cheese shop. The black pepper Brie is excellent, and they often stock creative options such as goat milk cheeses with yuzu or wasabi.
The English-speaking staff are there to help if you’re feeling overwhelmed by choice.
{Related: Some of our Favorite Parisian Cheese Shops & Sellers}
Rock Bottles (22 rue du Ruisseau) is where to pick up natural wines. The shop is small and focuses on organic and biodynamic producers—both well-established names and interesting discoveries. For more traditional options, try Cave des Abbesses (43 rue des Abbesses). Both have approachable, knowledgeable staff who can point you toward something special.
Clothes Shopping
Rue des Abbesses is where you’ll find those perennial Paris favorites—Sandro (#37), YSE (#45), Léon et Harper (#46),and Ba&sh (1bis). Not far away, A.P.C. Surplus (20 rue André del Sarte) is worth checking out for discounted pieces from the cult Parisian brand.
Chinemachine (100 rue des Martyrs) is a colorful, quirky friperie near Sacré-Cœur that’s been attracting vintage lovers for years. It’s a small space, and you’ll need to have some time on your hands to find something worth holding onto.
Other Stops
Le Pied à terre (9 rue Custine) is my favorite bookshop in the neighborhood. It offers largely French books, but there are also quirky zines and pretty stationery.
Métiers (9 rue Francoeur) sells tasteful, hand-crafted home furnishings, highlighting the work of local designers and artists. They have superb gifts—scarves, candles, blankets—all beautifully made.
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Paris Unlocked Associate Editor Rachel Naismith is a former micro-bakery owner and manager of a Glasgow-based food bank. She currently lives in Paris where she writes about the city’s shifting culinary landscape. Her work has appeared in publications including Palate Magazine, Travel Mag and the HIP Paris Blog.
You can see more about Rachel at rachelnaismith.com.
