In March of 2020, I made a short trip from Paris that was a long time coming. I boarded a train, then a bus, to the quiet town of Drancy, […]
France’s Bastille Day Once Celebrated Constitutional Monarchy (& Other Curious Facts)
On July 14th, 2020, there was no grand parade on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées celebrating France’s Bastille Day, for the first time since World War II. This time around, the […]
Post-Lockdown, Paris Mayor Publishes Ambitious Green Plan for the City
It doesn’t come as much of a surprise that Anne Hidalgo, the newly re-elected Mayor of Paris, has co-conceived what is likely the most ecologically ambitious plan for the capital […]
In Review: The Hotel Thoumieux & Its Elegant Brasserie
Nestled between the Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, the Hotel Thoumieux is a four-star boutique hotel in an unusually vibrant corner of Paris’ touristy 7th arrondissement. The hotel and adjoining […]
The Forgotten History of Paris’ Wine Market (Halle aux Vins) & Warehouses
The area around the Quai St-Bernard at the edge of Paris’ Latin Quarter is strikingly contemporary– in contrast to most of the 5th arrondissement, where the Gallo-Roman, medieval and Haussmannian […]
Inside Le Train Bleu, One of the Most Beautiful Restaurants in Paris
During the heyday of train travel in the late nineteenth to early-twentieth centuries, rail stations in major cities were places where wealthy travelers showed off their status and prestige. Le […]
An Elegant Paris Building– With a Dark History of Nazi Collaboration
On the Place des Petits Pères in central Paris, a sense of calm abounds these days. The Basilique Notre-Dame-des-Victoires church graces the square, and the lush gardens and covered arcades […]
10 Memorable French Quotes, Followed by a Quiz: Who Said It?
While the art of the witty quotation is often attributed to English-speaking writers and thinkers– from Wilde to Swift– comparable quips in French tend to really make you stop and […]
5 Stunning French Paintings that Depict Paris (& Transport You There)
This week, we framed and hung a new print to liven up a blank wall in our house: an enigmatic painting from Marc Chagall that subtly plunges you into the […]
Paris, the Week Before Lockdown: Springtime Poetry & Rising Anxiety
I’m currently sitting in my kitchen and watching a jackdaw hop around in the back garden, while bees hum around a rosemary bush that’s recently exploded with pale bluish flowers. […]
25 Songs That Take You to Paris, Straight From Your Couch or Kitchen
Most of us can’t get to Paris at the moment, owing to the global, erm, *situation* that has brought travel to a halt. And to paraphrase one of my Parisian […]
Quiz: Are You More Right Bank or Left-Bank Paris?
Paris is divided by the Seine River and the Ile de la Cité into left and right banks (rive gauche and rive droite, respectively). Locals tend to identify with one […]
A Short History of Quarantines in Europe and France
The early spring of 2020 will no doubt take up some space in the history books. It marks a moment that is unprecedented in contemporary life: the first time in […]
Seeking Josephine Baker in Paris: A Bit of History & Places to Visit
When most people think of Josephine Baker, they imagine her dancing in some glamorous Paris venue at the height of the jazz age. While this image certainly isn’t wrong, it […]
In Focus: The Musée Carnavalet, a Free Paris Museum Dedicated to the City’s History
Anyone aiming to better understand the long and complex history of the French capital would do well to pay a visit to the Musée Carnavalet in Paris. The permanent collection […]
Paris in 2020: What’s New to See & Do This Year?
If you’re plotting a trip to the French capital sometime in 2020, it’s no doubt handy to have an overview of what’s worth seeing and doing this year. It’s set […]
The Rebirth of La Samaritaine, an Iconic Parisian Department Store
When news hit in 2005 that one of Paris’ historic department stores was being shuttered, locals reacted with understandable sadness and dismay. After all, since 1869, La Samaritaine– with its […]
The Jean-Jacques Henner Museum: A Quietly Stunning Paris Collection
Most tourists never set foot into one of the French capital’s finest single-artist collections, the Jean-Jacques Henner Museum. This is a shame. Not only does it house an arresting permanent […]
Exploring the Fondation Louis Vuitton Museum in Paris, Inside & Out
We don’t wish to disappoint you: this newcomer to the Parisian arts scene doesn’t resemble a giant, patterned couture bag from the popular designer after which it’s named. Maybe you’d say […]
In Video: Secret & Offbeat Paris Neighborhoods to Explore Now
When you’re after a more local, secret Paris rather than the one pushed by top-10 lists in conventional guidebooks, it’s necessary to step off the dusty old tourist circuits and […]