On a quiet side street in Montparnasse that seems worlds apart from the frenetic Boulevards and terraced cafes just feet away, there’s a typically Belle-Epoque […]
Paris Culture
In Review: The Grand Pigalle Hotel in Paris
Situated in South Pigalle, a formerly seedy Parisian district that’s recently been colonized by hipsters, foodies and fashionistas, the Grand Pigalle Hotel has only […]
Inside La Coupole, a Montparnasse Brasserie Haunted With Artistic History
Referring to the legendary Parisian brasserie on Boulevard de Montparnasse, French historian Georges Viaud once remarked: “If the tables [here] could talk, they would […]
Belleville Artists’ Open Studios: Get a Glimpse of Local Creation
Every year in late spring (this year in October), over 200 artists working in Paris’ northeastern Belleville neighborhood open their studios for a few days to the […]
Inside the 104 (Cent-Quatre), a Vibrant Contemporary Art Hub in Paris
A fascinating and important branch in the Parisian culture scene, the 104 (Le Cent Quatre) is a vast communal art center in Paris’ remote 19th […]
A Short History of French Macarons, From Saint-Emilion to Paris
On a recent trip to the fortified medieval town of Saint-Emilion, my partner and I stayed in a lovely B&B plunged in the middle of […]
Paris Airport Taxis: How to Use Them (& Avoid the Bad Ones)
I still remember my first bad taxi ride from Charles de Gaulle Airport. I was returning home from a visit with family in California, lugging […]
Paris Loves Vinyl: The Coveted Collectors’ Event Returns in January
Do you routinely lament the poor sound quality of MP3s and other digital music formats, as your spouse or friends groan at your predictable rant? […]
Inside Lapérouse, a Romantic Paris Restaurant With History Galore
First opened in 1766 as “La Maison Lapérouse”, this distinguished restaurant and bar situated smack on the banks of the Seine is a favorite spot for […]
Why Paris’ Quirky Parc de la Villette is Worth a Visit
One place in Paris where you aren’t likely to see as many tourists wandering around? The sprawling, quirky, modern complex in the far northeast known […]
Paris Book Fair (Festival du Livre): The 2023 Program
One of the rare trade shows in the French capital to attract both the general public and professionals, the Festival du Livre/Paris Book Fair (formerly […]
Illuminated Species: An Enchanting Ode to Biodiversity at the Jardin des Plantes
Following the runaway success of the Klimt show at the Atelier des Lumières, the Jardin des Plantes in Paris is hosting its own light-centric exhibit […]
Nightlife Notes: La Bellevilloise, for Laid-Back Drinks & Live Music in Paris
Ever since moving to the northeastern side of Paris, I’d been curious to give La Bellevilloise a try, having heard that it’s a closely-guarded […]
Visiting the Atelier des Lumières, Paris’ First (All)-Digital Art Museum
When I first heard that an all-digital art museum and cultural space called the Atelier des Lumières would be opening its doors in Paris sometime […]
In Review: Eating Europe’s “Hip Eats and Backstreets” Tour of Paris
I’ll start by saying this: If there’s any food tour that you should take on an empty stomach, it’s this one. The “Hip Eats and Backstreets” […]
Le Foodist: French Cooking Classes in Paris That Aren’t Intimidating
I arrive at Le Foodist, located near the Sorbonne University, notebook in hand and ready to observe a day of traditional French cooking. But as […]
Paris Out of Hand: A Review of the Surrealist Guidebook to the Capital
…& Some Thoughts on the Power of “Imaginary Cities”, in Print & in Dreams The subtitle of the handsomely bound, compact red volume should […]
Exploring Paris’ Belleville District: A Haven for Artists, Immigrants & Revolutionaries
I’m a former resident of Belleville, that fascinating, messy, somewhat chaotic neighborhood in a corner of northeastern Paris that’s so often maligned. One that many […]
These 5 Places in Paris Aren’t Usually Associated With African-American History. They Should Be.
“It’s a great city, Paris, a beautiful city––and––it was very good for me.”– James Baldwin, Another Country (1962) One of the most singular and important […]
How I Finally Cracked Parisian (and French) Humor
Much ink has been spilled about French people having no “real”sense of humor– at least not beyond a strong penchant for biting political satire, à […]