When news hit in 2005 that one of Paris’ historic department stores was being shuttered, locals reacted with understandable sadness and dismay. After all, since 1869, La Samaritaine– with its boldly-lettered Art Nouveau […]
History of Paris
Inside the Wine Museum in Paris (Musée du Vin)
Aside from the humble baguette, there is perhaps no other staple more common in French homes than the bottle of wine. Parisians have the luxury of choosing among hundreds of different varieties of […]
Wandering Paris’ Saint-Germain-des-Prés Neighborhood (Past and Present)
Put on your Sunday best and head over to Saint-Germain-des-Prés, an upscale Parisian neighborhood with centuries-old literary, revolutionary and artistic roots. Situated on the left bank of the Seine River– just blocks west of […]
Fluctuat Nec Mergitur: Why is it Paris’ Motto, and What Does it Mean?
If you follow Parisian cultural trends with any regularity, you’ve probably seen locals reference the Latin expression “Fluctuat nec mergitur” as the city’s motto. But what does it mean– and where does it […]
Parisian Legends: Interview with Patrick Roger, France’s Own Willy Wonka
As this goes to press, the Salon du Chocolat is gearing up for another run in Paris–an annual trade show devoted to the art (and enjoyment) of chocolate. To celebrate the irresistible stuff […]
Inside L’Officine Universelle Buly, a 19th-Century-Style Paris Apothecary
I’ve always been a bit skeptical of the apothecary trend. It’s generally struck me as a marketing ploy to raise the perceived value or originality of products and crank up their prices– irrespective […]
6 Inspiring Urban Farms & Community Gardens to Explore in Paris Now
Paris has a lot going for it, but if there’s one thing lacking, it’s space. The need to squeeze, adjust and think creatively not only applies to living space but to agriculture too. […]
How to Enjoy Paris Gay Pride (Marche des Fiertés LGBT+) in 2019?
Summer in the French capital necessarily means festivals and music filling the streets, the long days seeming to stretch out even further amid the joyful din. And what better way to kick off […]
A Stroll Through Montparnasse Cemetery in Paris
Opened in 1824, Montparnasse Cemetery sits on a site that was once occupied by three farms, in what was then a rural, sleepy corner of southern Paris. Home to the graves of denizens […]
Seeking Belle-Epoque Paris in the Grands Boulevards District: My Full Guide
Technically, the tangled arrangement of wide, grandiose streets known as the Grands Boulevards in Paris stretch all the way from the Eglise Madeleine church in the 8th arrondissement (district) to the Place de […]
After the Fire: A Short History of Notre-Dame Cathedral’s Disasters & Rebirths
Like most people, I felt a lump rising in my throat when I saw images of Notre-Dame Cathedral lapped with flames and choked by smoke on April 15th. The fire, ostensibly an accidental […]
In Focus: Paris’ Palais Royal, a Haven From the Crowds
It may be just a few hundred feet away from the Louvre, the buzzing epicenter of tourism in the French capital. It may house a Michelin-starred restaurant, opulent boutiques, centuries-old theatres, covered passageways […]
Academie de la Grande Chaumière: The Paris Art Studio Favored by Modigliani, Miró and Lempicka
On a quiet side street in Montparnasse that seems worlds apart from the frenetic Boulevards and terraced cafes just feet away, there’s a typically Belle-Epoque building you’d be forgiven for not noticing. But […]
Inside La Coupole, a Montparnasse Brasserie Haunted With Artistic History
Referring to the legendary Parisian brasserie on Boulevard de Montparnasse, French historian Georges Viaud once remarked: “If the tables [here] could talk, they would tell the story of La Coupole’s role in […]
A Short History of French Macarons, From Saint-Emilion to Paris
On a recent trip to the fortified medieval town of Saint-Emilion, my partner and I stayed in a lovely B&B plunged in the middle of the vineyards, outside the city walls. Our amiable […]
In Review: Lapérouse, a Romantic Paris Restaurant With History Galore
First opened in 1766 as “La Maison Lapérouse”, this distinguished restaurant and bar situated smack on the banks of the Seine is a favorite spot for well-heeled literary and artistic types. It’s a place […]
Medieval Paris: A Self-Guided Tour of 5 Intriguing Places
During the 19th century, the Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann gutted much of what had been medieval Paris-– forging the iconic skyline and enormous, grandiose boulevards we now (wrongly) tend to think of as timeless. […]
Seeking Edith Piaf in Paris? Visit These 4 Places
Affectionately dubbed “the little sparrow” and “la môme” (the kid) in France, Edith Piaf is a musical legend who has (rather surprisingly?) resonated with successive generations of listeners. Thanks in part to Olivier […]
The Oldest House in Paris Was Built by Famous *Alchemist* Nicolas Flamel
The modest medieval house located at 51, Rue de Montmorency in Paris is off-radar for most tourists. Yet for a niche set of visitors with interests in alchemy and the occult, Harry Potter […]
Great Parisians: In Tribute to Simone Veil
In June 2017, France lost Simone Veil, one of the most important figures in the long battle for women’s rights. Little-known outside the French-speaking world, Veil, who died at the age of 89 […]