Many of my French friends loathe Paris in January. According to their dramatic telling, the city becomes a miserable, soul-devouring and depressing place that might easily have featured as one of Dante’s nine circles of hell. Not to mention that it allegedly reinforces stereotypes of Parisians being masters of gloom and existential angst.
I’ve never shared those sentiments, needless to say. Perhaps my years of wishing for a “real” winter as a child in Southern California (coupled with my preference for cold over extreme heat) have made me tolerant of conditions deemed ghastly by others.
After all, icy wind that mildly stings your face can occasionally be *enjoyable*, especially when you’re wrapped to the nose in scarves and heading for a warm cafe to meet a friend. There’s something cozy and even poetic about it.
Read related: 6 Of my Favorite Winter Haunts in Paris
Maybe where my friends see endless blight and a depressing lack of activity, I see stillness and peace. The holidays have passed and there’s again space for contemplation, quiet and food that won’t tax your liver.
Tourists are thin on the ground, and I can visit an exhibit without getting subtly (or not so subtly) pushed along when I’m trying to fully appreciate the brush strokes on a particular painting.
Tables are actually free at my favorite cafes. Human traffic isn’t clogging the sidewalks, and riding the metro doesn’t set off waves of claustrophobic panic or a desire to claw at fellow passengers.
In short, it’s ideal if, like me, you dislike crowds and enjoy a quieter, more low-key pace when traveling. After all, there’s no “best time of year to visit Paris”: it’s all strictly a matter of personal preferences and tastes.
Enjoying the sounds of silence don’t mean you’ll be condemned to boredom, of course. Keep reading for my suggestions on how to enjoy January in the capital to the fullest, including a few shows and exhibits that I especially recommend. For further ideas, you can consult the Paris Tourist Office page and their handy event calendars.
January Weather in Paris, & Some Packing Tips
January generally brings solid cold spells, with temperatures commonly near or sometimes even below zero. Make sure to line your bags with at least a couple of warm sweaters and winter coat, perhaps a waterproof jacket to go underneath in case of inclement weather.
Also pack warm, fuzzy socks, good gloves, scarf and a hat. Wind chill can be especially bracing at this time of year, and since the days are still running short, catching a chill is very likely if you don’t bundle up. But don’t exclusively bring winter wear along: warmer days can suddenly send you wanting to peel off the sweater and coat, so layering is generally advisable.
Minimum Temperature: 2 degrees C/35.6 degrees F
Maximum Temperature: 8 degrees C/46.4 degrees F
Average temp: 5 degrees C/41 degrees F
Average monthly precipitation: 2 inches
While it occasionally snows in January, it’s very unlikely to stick to the ground: but it might create minor hazards as it melts and forms into an icy sludge on the sidewalks and streets.
This is one reason (aside from comfort and warmth) that I discourage you from wearing heels while walking around the city at this time of the year. Who wants a sprained ankle to put a spanner in an otherwise wonderful trip? Unless it’s bright and clear out and the streets are free of ice or slick rain, pack your heels in a bag if you’ve planned to wear them for a special occasion later in the day.
What to Do in January?
It’s certainly not the busiest time of the year, and you admittedly may have to get a bit creative if you don’t wish to stay stuck indoors. But there’s still plenty to see and do– and, as mentioned, you’ll have the benefit of more relaxed conditions and relatively thin crowds on your side.
1. Indulge in some cafe-hopping.
The art of the cafe-hop is one that is practically baked into the DNA of Parisian culture. You can build a blustery day around stops at two or three cafes or brasseries, exploring various neighbourhoods on your way to the next warm refuge and “damn fine cup of coffee“.
January is also the perfect time to curl up somewhere warm with that tome you’ve been planning on getting through but haven’t had time to. (Side note: If you make it through James Joyce’s Ulysses, let me know: I never got past Book One…)
Over at TripSavvy, I have a feature on Parisian cafes, bookshops and gardens that also happen to be literary haunts, frequented by writers from Richard Wright to Ernest Hemingway and Simone de Beauvoir.
Parisian Tearooms I recommend
More of a tea person? Get cozy and warm at these fantastic places for afternoon tea in Paris.
2. Spend an afternoon at the cinema.
As I’ve said many times before and will probably repeat going forward, there’s no city better suited to cinephilic fever than Paris. It screens over 300 films per week and has more “salles” (theatres) per capita than a film lover could possibly dream of.
January generally has a good share of mucky, icky, sloshy and otherwise unpleasant days: ones that make spending most of your time indoors seem like the most attractive prospect.
A single or even double screening will whisk you off the streets and do just the trick, but I’d avoid escapist blockbusters: instead, take refuge in an old arthouse theatre that will still give you a local, cozy experience worth writing home about.
3. Explore the “arcades” of Paris (covered passageways).
Another of my preferred ways to get out of the cold (but not necessarily forgo sunlight on mercifully clear days) is to wander through the elaborate, elegant network of covered passageways that grace certain districts in Paris.
The most well-known of these include the Galerie Vivienne (pictured), Galerie Colbert, Passage des Panoramas and the Passage Jouffroy. Built mostly during the 18th and 19th centuries and also referred to as galeries or arcades, they were made famous by philosopher and cultural critic Walter Benjamin’s astute, contemplative study in The Arcades Project .
Harboring boutiques, restaurants and tearooms, bookshops, old-world toy stores, poster shops, etc., many of the passageways have been restored to their original glory. The historic 1900 brasserie Le Grand Colbert is a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner.
It’s not difficult to admire the elaborate mosaic floors, glass rooftops, faux marble pillars decorated with paintings, and airy beauty that seems firmly anchored in a previous era.
Whether you stroll, shop, or stop for lunch or coffee, wandering through the loosely interconnected galeries on the right bank offer both a good way to understand how certain districts connect, and take refuge from the cold and rain.
For more on shopping in the capital, see this guide at Time Out . You can also check out this guide to navigating the annual winter and summer sales in Paris, with tips on how to avoid stress and disappointment as you hit the stores.
Exhibits and Shows Worth Your While in January 2022
No matter the season, there are generally at least a few excellent exhibits and shows on in the capital, and well worth a few hours of your morning or afternoon. Here are a couple I recommend to start the year out on a good footing.
Opening of the Musée Méliès Film Museum at the Cinémathèque Francaise
The recently renovated and re-conceptualized cinema museum at the Cinémathèque française re-opened with considerable fanfare early this year. It boasts a new concept, called the Musée Méliès– that highlights the work and legacy of one of France’s early film pioneers, alongside the art of film more generally. Visit the huge permanent exhibition, whose collections comprise props, costumes, magic lanterns )the predecessors to cinema), and many other objects and artifacts that together trace the history of cinema.
Georges Méliès made history with his film “The Man in the Moon” in 1902, and the early movie has pride of place the new exhibition. The part of the museum that explores his legacy also intriguingly explores his mark on modern film, showing how Méliès impacted the work of filmmakers including Michel Gondry, Jean Cocteau, Tim Burton, Steven Spielberg, Guillermo del Toro and others.
When: Ongoing/permanent exhibit
Vogue Paris, 1920-2020 (at the Palais Galliera)
For fashion history amateurs, this major show at the Palais Galliera fashion museum f is one not to miss. It traces the century-long history of Vogue Paris, the French version of the iconic fashion magazine, through photographs, magazine covers and other materials from some of Vogue’s most famous photographers and illustrators.
The work of Mario Testino, William Klein, Inez & Vinoodh, and other legendary lenses and artists are highlighted in the show, alongside a look at the close ties Vogue Paris cultivated throughout the years with iconic designers from Karl Lagerfeld to Yves Saint Laurent.
When: Through January 30th, 2022
Paris Loves Vinyl /Vinyl Sale at the Bastille Design Center
Can’t stop collecting old records? Fans of their rich sound and tactile joys should beeline to the Bastille Design Center on January 30th to browse some 50,000 high-quality records, covering genres from jazz to hip-hop, rock to Motown. See more info on the event at the official Facebook page.
Location: Bastille Design Cebter, 74 Boulevard Richard Lenoir, 75011 Paris (11th arrondissement)
Ready to book your January Trip?
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